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LEXICON

A SCHOOL THAT LASTS

NATURAL COROZO

A fruit of the Ecuadorian palm tree and also known as vegetable ivory, corozo is used to make buttons. Its original light color develops a patina over time, increasingly resembling certain woods, bone, or ivory. At Kidur, all our shirts feature natural corozo buttons.

KUWAMURA

Founded in 1928 by Ryutaro Kuwamura, the factory, originally dedicated to weaving banshu-ori, closed in 1943 during the Second World War. Restored in 1947, it reopened, equipped with 12 Jacquard looms. It now specializes in weaving yarn-dyed cotton.

SHIBAYA

Founded in 1907 in Osaka, Japan, the Shibaya weaving company began its business as a manufacturer of coarse cotton canvas. The company has since specialized in the manufacture of fabrics for workwear and uniforms.

TOKI-SEN-I

Japanese knitwear workshop founded in 1984. Specialists in knitwear, they combine modern technology with traditional know-how, manufacturing on antique "Tsuri" knitting machines. They operate at a slower speed for slower production, resulting in a knit with a particularly soft, supple, and comfortable character, a knit that could not be produced on current circular knitting machines.

WEIGHT

Each fabric is characterized by its weight per linear meter, that is, its weight per meter of fabric. Weights range from 90 gr/m for a fine fabric to 800 gr/m for a very thick fabric.

DYED YARNS

Yarns are pre-dyed before being woven. Fabrics made from dyed yarns have a dye that is more resistant to washing and wear.

HONEYCOMB

Fabric that has small cells formed by weaving

Qualities: comfort, softness, robustness, wrinkle resistance, good moisture absorption and quick drying.

Honeycomb armor.

FLANNEL

From the Welsh word "glâwn" meaning "wool," flannel was originally made exclusively from wool fibers, woven into a soft, loose-knit fabric. Today, it is generally made from cotton.

Qualities: softness and warmth thanks to the brushed surface, flexible and crease-resistant.

Cloth

This is the simplest weave: a weft thread passes successively over and under a warp thread. It is one of the three main weaves, along with twill and satin.

Gabardine

Created in 1880 by Thomas Burberry, gabardine is a fabric characterized by its very tight weave and its relative impermeability.

twill

This is a cross twill weave characterized by diagonals that run from left to right. Qualities: Strong, supple, and crease-resistant.

tweed

Plain weave or twill. Tweed was originally made exclusively of wool fibers. The color effects are achieved by twisting several strands of yarn in different shades. Qualities: Highly durable, soft and warm, supple, and very crease-resistant.

FLEECE

Knitted fabric, brushed or not on the reverse side. Fleece is elastic, soft, and used for making sweatshirts.

RAGLAN SLEEVE

Created for the English General Raglan, who lost an arm at the Battle of Waterloo, the raglan sleeve is characterized by a seam that runs from the underside of the arm to the neckline. This makes the garment easy to put on and comfortable to wear.

CAMP COLLAR

Open collar with facing, fitted with a button and a drawstring. The Camp shirts from the Kidur clothing factory all have this small strap to close the top of the shirt.

American Gorge

Button placket sewn down the center of the shirt. This is particularly common on casual shirts. Kidur Clothing Factory offers this finish on its Work Shirts, Canadian Shirts, and more recently, the Meryl.

Patronage / Patron

A pattern is what you might call a template representing the shape of a garment component, laid flat. The pattern is then used as a template for cutting the fabric. Kidur has its own design office in the workshop, allowing it to develop its patterns to create its unique designs.

DAo

Computer-aided design. Our design office designers use CAD to create technical files that will serve as a guide for the workshop teams to create Kidur clothing.

cAo

Computer-aided design. This software allows our design office pattern makers to design patterns.

QUILTING

Layering fabrics together in a mattress. A term used when cutting garments. The operator quilts layers of fabric on top of each other before cutting the pieces using the patterns.

Denim, JEAN

Denim, or Nîmes twill, where it originated, is a cotton fabric with a twill weave. This very dense and strong material is characterized by a diagonal pattern. It was used at the time to make sturdy and protective worker clothing.

The twill could be plain in cotton or other materials, or mixing ecru weft threads and warp threads dyed with Genoa blue, or Blue Jean then simply JEAN.

DENIM and JEAN are the typical materials used to make denim pants and jackets.

selvedge

Self-Finished Edge, or Self-Finished Edge, is a typical finish for denim. Instead of leaving the weft threads on the fringe, the loom lays a selvedge that holds the weave in position and prevents it from sagging. This finish is typical of dense, heavy denim, and the color of the selvedge thread can be a trademark of the weaver.

CANDIANI

Founded in 1938 in the Ticino Valley Nature Reserve of northern Italy, Candiani Denim is one of the most sustainable denim manufacturers in the world. Specializing in rigid denim and selvedge denim, Candiani is the largest denim factory in Europe.

Sustainable production, circularity, and recycling are at the heart of Candiani's organization. The use of clean technology and biodegradable components allows Candiani to use significantly less water and weave eco-designed SELVEDGE DENIM .

right hand twill

There are several ways to weave a TWILL or TWILL.

The most common is RIGHT HAND TWILL or Z TWILL, where the diagonal pattern appears to run from bottom left to top right. This weave is a denim standard, ensuring a flat, smooth weave and is ideal for heavy, thick fabrics.

3 x 1

Often combined in DENIM with Z TWILL, 3X1 sees the INDIGO warp yarn overlapping the ecru weft yarn only every three threads. This Z TWILL design is the most robust and is almost always found in workwear clothing, which includes DENIM pieces.

GRADATION

Grading is an enlargement or diminution of a basic pattern to obtain smaller and larger sizes.