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The oldest preserved shirt dates back to Antiquity (around 3,000 BC). At the time, it was not called a shirt, but rather a tunic. It had two sleeves and a side seam. The tunic was generally made of linen, wool or silk.
Later, in the 5th century, the tunic was not to be seen, and became known as the camisia. This garment was not designed to be elegant, since it had no precise shape or size. However, it was designed to protect the skin from the rough clothing worn at the time. The camisia therefore served as undergarments.
The Persian tunic was later brought to Europe by the Crusaders. The tunic features sleeves that are cut and sewn at the wrists. The sleeves no longer drooped like earlier tunics, but were worn short by men. This marked the beginning of the transformation from tunic to shirt.
In the Middle Ages, shirts didn't have the clean, refined look we see today. Shirts were made of linen or wool, very resistant raw materials. This meant they could be washed and boiled regularly, hygiene being an important issue in the 13th and 14th centuries.
It was during this period that semi-button-down shirts appeared: they were buttoned only above the chest, and bore a symbolism. The longer the shirt, the wealthier the owner.
In the 15th century, the shirt, which had previously been just an undergarment, became fashionable and had to be visible. Noble materials such as silk take precedence over coarse materials such as wool and linen. Shirts became slimmer and collars were added.
The white of the shirt is highlighted by the scoop neckline. From then on, the shirt became a sign of social distinction.
In the following century, the style of shirt collars and cuffs became heavier with lace, embroidery and buttons. Social status was reflected in shirt decoration.
Buttonholes gradually developed, and with them the difference between men's and women's items. Men's buttonholes are on the right, while women's are on the left. In the 17th century, high-ranking women were dressed by servants, and the left-hand buttonhole made their work easier.
In the 18th century, men wore shirts with lace cuffs and a white jabot. When Napoleon came to power at the beginning of the 19th century, the shirt was hidden, with only the cuffs and collar showing. It also became longer, and the collar was turned up into a point held in place by a tie.
Tailoring services first appeared in the 17th century. Shirts were cut and sewn by hand. The tailor incorporated luxurious elements, and the made-to-measure shirt was now a guarantee of good taste and success.
Hannah Montague, an American woman living in New York in 1820, used to take the collars off her husband's shirts and wash them separately. In this way, her husband always gave the impression of wearing a clean shirt. Based on this idea, Mrs. Montague registered a patent in 1927 and began manufacturing removable collars. Success came quickly and the business expanded.
Competing companies opened, and soon removable cuffs also appeared... At the beginning of the 20th century, the manufacture of collars and cuffs and the associated laundry were an industry in their own right. The industry's products were aimed primarily at the wealthy classes. White collars were distinguished from blue-collar workers.
In 1850, through a patent, Brown, Davis & Co of Aldermanbury invented a mass-produced shirt. At the beginning of the 19th century, clothing, and particularly shirts, were made by tailors and seamstresses scattered across the country. The Industrial Revolution brought these workers together in specialized workshops.
Shirt design, cutting and ironing were grouped together and carried out by a single unit, while sewing remained separate and was outsourced to other companies. Thanks to these new organizations, manufacturing capacities increased and the garment gradually became more democratic.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the First World War marked a turning point. To dress its soldiers quickly and economically, the American army developed a system of standard clothing sizes. This rationalization increased production and lowered costs, and the companies adopting these methods were called "confectioners".
Between the two world wars, Americans, fond of Parisian fashion, imported French-style clothing on a massive scale. The Second World War suspended trade between the United States and Europe, and in particular North American supplies of Parisian couture.
The United States had to mass-produce its own workwear and uniforms. Industrialization combined with standardization of sizes meant that they were no longer dependent on Paris, and soon garment manufacturers decided to make simpler, cheaper clothes that could be produced more quickly. This method, known as "Ready to wear", had a considerable influence on French fashion after the war.
As soon as hostilities ended, Albert Lempereur, President of the French Federation of the Women's Clothing Industry, alerted the French press and garment manufacturers to American methods.
Little by little, the principles of "Ready to Wear" took hold in France. The Parisian company Weill democratized the notion of "clothing that fits" and introduced the concept of prêt à porter in France. Ready-to-wear soon covered all types of clothing. It gradually came to mean mass-produced garments with a sizing system and a brand label.
We quickly find ready-to-wear creations, designer ready-to-wear and ready-to-wear for workers. All phases of garment design are grouped together in production units. Quality, fashion-inspired garments become more accessible.
Since 1927, the Kidur factory in France has been producing high-quality, hard-wearing fabrics. Initially known for their durable fabrics, founders Juste Lucain Husseau and René Moynaton registered the Kidur trademark in 1935.
At the time, Kidur was all about fabrics for the world of work, for the manufacture of workers' garments, thick, robust fabrics with colorfastness, twills and moleskins made in France. Workers needed inexpensive, hard-wearing, high-quality clothing for their work. To improve their working conditions, clothing also had to protect them from machine hazards and dirt.
Workwear also had to be protective, comfortable, functional and adapted to different environments. As early as 1945, thanks to the creation of a garment factory in conjunction with the Plainelière weaving mills, Kidur was able to apply its know-how and use its robust, durable fabrics to provide workers in factories and fields with quality garments.
At first Kidur was known for his shirtsthen for a complete range of durable clothing. The quality of the workmanship, the strength of the fabrics and the colorfastness give Kidur clothing exemplary durability. From the very beginning of the brand, Kidur's commitment has been underpinned by the slogan "Kidur, stands the test of time".
For over half a century, the Kidur factory clothed workers in factories all over the country, and its quality and expertise were recognized by all. Kidur was the benchmark for hard-wearing garments.
Later, like so many others, the company was surprised by the arrival on the market of disposable clothing from the other side of the world. Unable to fight back, the company refocused on what it did best - manufacturing, this time for others.
She let her historic brand, this little piece of heritage sleep at the back of a closet while she waited for the notion of sustainable, responsible and local consumption to once again become a criterion of choice.
In 2018, sensing the wind turning, she relaunched the machine. Kidur has revamped itself with a timeless collection in keeping with its origins, a broader collection of timeless garments that are as solid as ever, and still made in Courlay, France, in the historic factory.
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The Kidur team is at your service from Monday to Friday from 8H30 to 12H00 from 1.30 p.m. to 5.30 p.m. at 0549720130THE COLLECTION
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
The Kidur team is at your service from Monday to Friday from 8H30 to 12H00 and from 13H30 to 17H30
La Plainelière de Courlay
51, rue du Bocage
79440 Courlay - France
Orders for Kidur products are processed, prepared and dispatched from the Manufacture. We entrust the delivery of your orders to the Colissimo and Chronopost services.
For orders of Kidur products in stock. The delivery time is 2 to 3 working days in metropolitan France after the day the products are dispatched by our services.
Metropolitan France and overseas territories: Free delivery on orders over €150. Otherwise, you'll be asked to pay €5. You can also pick up your order directly at the factory and discover our workshop.
Europe: Free delivery on orders over €175. Otherwise, you will be asked to pay 15€.
Other countries: Free delivery on orders over 200€. Otherwise, you will be asked to pay €25.
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